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(No Model.) 3 Sheets-Sheet 1.

A. P. L. ISAAC.

APPARATUS FOR APPLYING OHENILLE T0 TULLE. No. 598,375. Patented Feb. 1,1898.

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(No Model.) 3 Sheets-Sheet 2.

A. P L. ISAAC. APPARATUS FOR APPLYING QHENILLE T0 TULLE. No 598,375.Patented Peb. 1,1898

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WITNESSES: INYENTOR HEATTORNEYJ? 7 TNE Norms PU'ERS c0 mow-urns"wAsnmafum u. c.

3 Sheets-Sheet 3 O A A S I L A n d 0 M 0 m APPARATUS FOR APPLYINGGHENILLB T0 TULLE. No. 598,375. Patented Feb. 1,1898.

INVENTOR APLISA A c n ATTORNEYS.

WITNESSES: fiww fli M 5- W NlTED STATES PAT NT OFFICE.

AUGUSTE P. L. ISAAC, OF LYONS, FRANCE.-

APPARATUS FOR APPLYING CHENILLE TO TULLE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 598,375, dated February1, 1898. 7 Application filed December 31, 1895. Serial No. 573,964. (Nomodel.)

worked in tulle, crepe, and generally any fabric of open texture. Thedevices for obtaining this result are shown double size in theaccompanying drawings. I

Figure 1 is a front elevation, and Fig. 2 a r sectional side elevation.Figs. 3 to 7 are diagrammatio views representing the different steps ofthe operation. Figs. 8 and 9 are views at right angles to each othershowing a machine for applying a single dot at a time. Figs. 10 to 14are detail views of parts of Figs. 8 and 9, hereinafter referred to.

The parts or devices consist of, on the lower side of the material,first, a device consisting.

of a fixed plate or support a, Figs. 1 and 2, having a passage or,through which the chenille is fed, and of a grooved or fluted cylinder1), recessed into the plate a; second, a cutting-blade a, forming withthe edge of the passage Ct a shears; third, a plate 01, perforated witha small T-shaped openingand shown separately in Fig. 14; fourth, asquare bent hook e; fifth, two needles f f, each grooved on one side andjust separated sufficiently from each other to allow of the bent part ofthe hook e passing between the two of them; sixth, a piece g, capable ofsliding betweenthe two needles in their grooves, the T- shaped openingin the plate (1 allowing the parts 6, f, f, and g to pass through thisplate when necessary; seventh, another plate D, (shown in detail Fig.14,) bored with a round hole and a little recess for the hook e, whichplate covers all the previously-mentioned parts and supports thematerial to be chenilled on the upper side of the material; eighth, apresserfooth of any suitable shape intended to hold the material on theplate D at the necessary moment; ninth, a plunger or stamp J,.in.

which there is a small recess 2', into which the end of the hook 6 canenter.

The application or working in of the chenille is effected in eightoperations.

First. The fluted or groovedcylinder b revolves to a certain angle andcauses the che nille to advance through the passage a to an extentnecessary for forming one spot.

Second. The hook e, passing through the opening in the plated, seizes inthe center the length of chenille which has advanced, gripping it ontothe piece 9, which at this moment grazes the upper face-of the plate 61.

Third. The cutting-blade 0 outs sharply the chenille by acting, asalready stated, as a shears against the edge of the passage a.

Fourth. The hook e and the piece g descend, carrying down the piece ofchenille; but as the latter is longer than the T-shaped opening in theplate 02 it is bent, Fig. 3,.into the form of a U the arms of whichengage in the grooves of the needles f f, Fig. 4. These needles have atthis moment their points in the opening of the plate (1, so that thearms of the U-shaped chenille cannot fail to engage in the needlegrooves. plate (1 are chamfered, as shown in Figs. 3, 4, &c., so as tofacilitate this bending to a U shape of the chenille.

Fifth. When the chenille U has descended sufficiently into the groove ofthe needles, the latter rise and pass through the material (which is tobe chenilled) up to a certain extent of theirlength, Fig. 5, while thepresserfoot It holds the material down against the plate D. The hook eand the piece 9 have risen simultaneously with the needles: and havecaused the branches of the U-shaped chenille to pass through thematerial to which it is to be applied, this passage taking place in thegrooves of the needles.

Sixth. The needles then descend again, leaving the chenille in position,still held by the piece 9 and hook c, Fig. 6.

Seventh. The stamp J then falls down. Its form is such that it bends upthe arms of the U-shaped chenille and closes them into the form shown inFig. 7, and, in fact, makes a round spot clenched on one or more threadsof the fabric. .Inorder that the spot may be well clenched, the hook ecan engage in the The edges of the opening in the recess '6 of the stampthe moment the latter passes the level of the plate D, bending thematerial, and it is then sharply withdrawn as soon as the stamp J falls.The latter therefore clenches or grips the spot on the piece g.

Eighth. The piece 9 again descends, the stamp J and the presser-foot hrise, and the cycle of operations recommences.

The parts hereinbefore described may be operated in various ways toobtain the movements mentioned and according as it is intended to fixone or more spots at a time. In the first case the machine onlycomprises'a single group of fixing or applying mechanisms or parts. Inthe second case several groups are arranged in one machine, whichoperates them simultaneously. I will now describe one example, merelyobserving that in both cases the essential parts remain the same andwork in the same way, only their driving mechanism, and consequently thegeneral form of the machine, being varied.

In a machine having a single group of parts the whole of the chenillingdevices run on the fabric to which the chenille is to be applied. It iscomposed of two beams or arms A, hingeably connected to one another, anda frame or table Z, Figs. 8 and 9. The front arm A, which carries thechenilling devices, can move in a horizontal plane, sliding on a plateB. I provide a screw with a head W, fastened to the plate V, to slide onthe support-plate B and thus maintain the arms A A in their normalpositions and so relieve the joints of the frame. The material to betreated with chenille is stretched on a frame 0, Figs. 8 and 9, andrests lightly on the plate D. An arrangement of pedal, crank, andflywheel imparts a continuous rotary movement to a pulley E, Figs. 8, 9,and 10, loose on a shaft F, by means of an endless cord running overreturn-pulleys G G G and the like.-

The rotary movement which is imparted to the shaft F when the pulley Eis engaged with a fixed pulley F, Fig. 10, is transmitted to a lowershaft H by known means of an elbowed crank I and intermediate crank L,Figs. 10 and 11.

The front arm A A A (shown separately, Fig. 10) has at one of its ends apuppet-head A, which itself supports, as is clearly shown in Figs. 10and 12, thestamp j, the presserfoot h, and their springs j h. The shaftF carries two cams j 7L acting, respectively, on the stamp j andpresser-foot h. The puppethead A is further provided with a knob M,which is taken hold of by the operative with the thumb and third fingerof his right hand in order to guide or control the machine, theindex-finger of the same hand actuating the engaging lever N. This leverN carries a screw n, which encounters the end of a catch 0 of a lever P.This lever P, oscillating on a vertical screw 19, carries anotherelbow-lever Q Q The arm Q acts on a releasing-bar R by means of a screw1". The other arm Q is in contact with a finger S, fixed on the shank ofthe stamp When the operative presses on the lever N, the series of parts0 P Q Q oscillates on the screw 19, the arm Q escapes from the finger S,and the releasing-rod R, released from the arm Q and returned by aspring and forked lever T T, brings the loose pulley E against the fastpulley F, which is moved as soon as the pin or stud e enters thecorresponding hole in the pulley F. The screw n has escaped from thecatch 0 immediately the arm Q has escaped from the finger S, so that thespring 19 returns the lever P to its former position and with it theleverarms QQZ and the latter arm Q engages the finger S, when afterbeing lowered with the stamp j said finger rises with the latter whenthe spot of chenille has been formed. The arm Q will then act on thedisengaging-rod and the machine will stop precisely at the moment whenthe stamp j and presser-foot it have risen, and the operative can thendis place the arm A, in order to make a fresh spot at any desired point.For this purpose it is necessary to release the lever N, which, returnedby its spring at, will return to its first position, the screw nslipping over the bevel of the catch 0, which oscillates on the sameaxis as the arms Q Q without being rigidly connected therewith.

The lower end of the front arm A, which is under the material, carries,by means of a double-socketed foot U, an upright plate V, on which allthe parts of the machine not hereinbefore described are arranged.

In order to feed the proper length of chenille into position to be outby the knife 0, I

olubly mounted on a spindle in fairly close relation to the piece a, soas to allow the cylinder b to grip the chenille and force it intoposition. On the same spindle with the cylinder b I mount aratchet-wheel b to control the movement of the said cylinder 6, and Iprovide a pawl 19 on a slide 19 moved by a cam b on the shaft H, tocause the ratchet-wheel b (and consequently the cylinder 1)) to advance,as will be readily understood by reference'to Figs. 10 and 13.

To control the bent lever c, which carries the cutting-blade o, Iprovide a spring 0 to press the lever 0 against the cam 0 keyed on theend of the shaft H, Figs. 10 and 12.

To control the hook e, I fix it on a horizontal slide e, which slide ismovable on a vertical slide 6 This horizontal slide 6 receives'itshorizontal movement by means of the bent lever 6 against the verticalarm of which the screw-head e bears. The bent lever (2 is controlled bythe cam 6 upon which it is pressed by a suitable spring 6 The ver in theupright plate V and on which projection the end of the bent lever fbears. The spindle of the bent lever f is mounted in and extends throughthe upright plate and on the needle side thereof carries the bent leverf The bent lever f bears against the cam f which thereby serves tocontrol the needles f. In order to return the needles out of the fabric,I provide a spring f Figs. 10, 12, and 13.

The piece 9 is controlled in much the same manner as the needles f,being mounted on a slide g, controlled by lever g and bent lever 9 whichlatter is acted upon by a cam 9 The spring 9 serves to return the piece9,,

Figs. 10, 12, and 13. I

The piece a, hereinbefore mentioned, is

formed in one With a plate D, which plate,

supports the plate d.

I declare that what I claim is- I 1. In a machine for applying chenilleon tulle, crepe or the like, the combination of a guide for thechenille, with two hollow needles, a piece adapted to slide up or down,between the needles, a hook acting with the sliding piece to gripthechenille, a stamp and presser-foot, all substantially as set forth.

2. In a machine for applying chenille on tulle or the like, thecombination of an upper and lower driving-shaft each provided with 3. Ina machine for applying chenille on tulle or the like, the combinationof'an upper andlower driving-shaft and a perforated plate between themon which the material rests, with a stamp and presser-foot actuated bythe upper shaft, needles actuated by the lower shaft, a gripping-pieceactuated by the lower shaft, and a hook adapted to engage with thegripping-piece, two sliding pieces the first carrying the said hook andsliding on the second piece and means for actuating each sliding piecefrom the lower driving-shaft whereby the hook receives horizontal andvertical movements, substantially as set forth.

In testimony whereof I havesigned my name to this specification in thepresence of two subscribing witnesses.

AUGUSTE P. L. ISAAC.

Witnesses:

J CANNES Cussnr, LANDIUs MICOLLIE.

